What’s It Worth? On Diamonds: Cut, Style And Valuation

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The popularity of diamond cuts waxes and wanes according to rarity, whims, popularity and personal style. In the 1970s for instance, marquise-cut diamonds were all the rage. Today, marquise cuts are almost unsellable unless of very high color and clarity – and even then they are heavily discounted. The princess cut, once the second most popular cut, is now beginning to fade a bit in many parts of the country.

Round stones have traditionally maintained their value, but precision of cut is critical. A badly cut diamond, no matter how good its color and clarity, will not match the fire and brilliance of a better-cut diamond with comparatively lower color and clarity. The 1970s-era modern cut trended toward a large table percentage of 65 to 69 percent. Today, this cut is heavily discounted, since by current standards, the Tolkowsky cut – with its smaller table that helps refract light better – is the preferred cut. These stones, called ideal cut or excellent cut, are the type that Tiffany and other fine stores sell. Old Northeast Jewelers carries a line of round diamonds called infinity cut that are an even finer cut; stop in to see them. Call to make an appointment with Katrina, Debbie or Darren.

We also are big fans of older-cut diamonds and indeed have been market leaders nationwide in the buying and selling of old European cuts and old mine cuts.

Old Europeans were cut to bring out whiteness rather than light refraction. Generally, an old European cut, I-color diamond will appear much whiter, often looking at first glance like an F or G color. These older cuts tend to be popular among free-thinking baby boomers and are especially popular with millennials ... not only because of their cool look but also because they were mined in simpler times, 80 to 150 years ago.

Below is our list of diamonds in the shapes that we buy and sell (in order of popularity):
• Round cut
• Emerald cut
• Cushion cut
• Old European /old mine cut
• Oval cut
• Princess cut
• Pear cut
• Heart cut
• Trillion cut
• Calf’s head cut and others
We currently have in stock a myriad of diamonds including a round brilliant cut of 3.54 carats, G color and VS1 for $63,000; a stunning 3.70 carat old European cut of G color and VS1 clarity for $73,000; a 6 carat M-Ncolor old European for $37,000 (above); and our finest – a 12.61 carat VVS2-clarity emerald cut for $195,000. (And, of course, many .50- to 2.00-carat round stones from a few hundred dollars to several thousand dollars.)


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GIA, Gemological Institute of America Inc IWJG, International Watch and Jewelry Guild NAWCC, National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors Inc DDC, Diamond Dealers Club New York ISG Global Network